Letters to Chile: A Place That Felt Like Home

A Memoir

For Lucho, Elly, Diego, and Camila.

Have you ever felt a deep longing for a home that isn't yours? For me, that home is a thin strip of land pressed tightly between the towering Andes and the Pacific Ocean. The truth is, I went to Chile as a tourist, but I left as a citizen homesick for a life I never lived. Walking the streets of Santiago, I realized some places don't just welcome you, they embrace you.

Santiago de Chile

In August 2024, my family and I decided to support my father's university conference held at

Pontifical Catholic University. At first, I wasn't very enthusiastic about the trip because I hadn't heard much about what this country had to offer. That is, until we flew there. We were hosted at Providencia, one of Santiago's most vibrant communes.

The very first thing I noticed was the temperature change. Man, was it freezing! No kidding, we were right next to the Andes. Despite the weather, I was fortunate enough to get a feel of the city during their school year, since they live in the Southern Hemisphere. Whenever we left our Airbnb, I would look around at the students, the families, the elderly... and they all seemed welcoming somehow. Not only because of the familiarity in language, but also because of their slang, their gestures and outerwear.

I paused for a bit and thought, "I wonder what it would be like to join them and be part of their group?" It was as if I saw a parallel, a different outcome of my life. I am used to seeing people carry themselves a certain way in Canada, but in Chile, they felt more aligned with my personality.

We only stayed five days in Chile, four of which were in Santiago. We first visited the cathedral and the historical centre to explore the city's primary landmarks. People speak more eloquently, and the streets, for the most part, are well-kept and maintained. The architecture itself gives the city a timeless touch.

I remember admiring their booth stands with colourful posters, filled with candy and other knick-knacks for sale, something very characteristic of Latin America.

At some point, the carabineros (policemen in the Chilean dialect) surrounded some buildings with their signature military uniforms. I had to take a picture of them; they seemed so relaxed off duty!

We visited Costanera Center, Chile's primary shopping mall. What can I say? It was huge to say the least. I didn't like that it was so confusing and inaccessible; there were too many stores, and the food court was an entire crowded floor of its own. However, there were still some aspects I enjoyed, such as having a nice causita peruana and a Pisco Sour drink with my family. No offence to Chile, but their ceviche just isn't the same as ours. After a post-dinner walk, I bought a beautiful pink and brown scarf at such a low price, and I still wear it to this day, thank you, Costanera!

But going to Sky Costanera is what truly took my breath away. Located right beside the shopping mall, this observational deck offered the most stunning views of the Andes Mountains. The sunset falling at the center of the city, while illuminating all the little houses like tiny dots, made my heart flutter. It was in this moment that I realized I truly wanted to live here for a few months. The colours were a spectacle of their own, with a mix of oranges, yellows and pinks; you were in for a real treat.

The next day, we decided to visit the Museum of Memory & Human Rights to understand the tragic events that occurred in this country. Chile suffered many losses when the state went through a coup d'état, including human rights violations that took place from 1973 to 1990.

I took pictures of the propaganda posters hung up next to one another with their charming pop art style, something very popular these days.

However, the most remarkable part was the dark rooms displaying real letters that children wrote to their families when they were separated. You were then greeted with small-screen video footage of Chile back in the 70s, explaining exactly what had happened. Reading those letters and watching those documentaries was chilling to the bone.

A bit further from downtown, we had the pleasure of visiting Cousiño Macul's vineyard. Even during the winter season, when the land is still being prepped, the wine is safely stored in old-fashioned brown barrels. During our tour, I tried three different wines, white, red and rosé, all of which were delicious. The grapes had aged like fine wine, pun very much intended.

Finally, we climbed up two hills: Saint Lucia's and San Cristobal's, where we had the opportunity to take Santiago's Cable Car. On our way to Saint Lucia's Hill, while I was sitting in the bus observing others on their phones or talking to each other, I experienced a strange feeling, I believe the term is sonder. I was wondering what their lives are like and what they had to say about living here... The hill was smaller, and personally, my favourite hiking trip for its orange spiral staircases and hidden pathways; it was exciting and unpredictable. San Cristobal's Hill was much steeper, had longer hiking paths, and was crowded with tourists, making it less enjoyable than the other hill. However, it still promised beautiful landscapes and, of course, the infamous cable car experience. I loved riding it, nothing better for an adrenaline junkie like myself!

Valparaíso

On our fourth day, our family members were happily waiting for us, so we took a morning bus ride and headed to the colourful city of Valparaíso. There is nothing better than waking up early for these kinds of road trips; it's oddly comforting and exciting. My family had booked the best front seats on the second floor of this double-decker bus. I couldn't wait to get there and get a different feel of the country with my uncles joining us. I knew this was a port city, so I was ready to inhale the smell of fish and coastal air.

Valparaíso has a variety of staircases, some of which are covered in beautiful graffiti, as well as murals with street art representing local musical artists or historical messages. Even though some heights were quite steep and, in some cases, tiring, the walk was still enjoyable.

There was a specific viewpoint where we had decided to rest and admire the view. It reminded me of Marseille, a port city in the South of France, for its similar architecture, merchandise boats and sailboats. Looking back at the photos I took is one of the main reasons I had to write about this.

This was my second favourite view, the first being back in Santiago, obviously.

Viña del mar

Of course, we had to visit Viña del Mar, and it sure isn't named "Garden City" for nothing. It had stunning topiary, including a counter clock! Unfortunately, we couldn't visit the beaches since they are closed during winter, but they were still enchanting enough to admire them from afar. My uncles decided to take us out for dinner at a local seaside restaurant with a breathtaking view, so I had to take a picture of it! What makes it so raw for me is that the weather was cloudy during that specific take, making the landscape feel both vintage and melancholic.

After the meal, we headed towards the Quinta Vergara park and visited the Vergara Palace, a fine arts Museum. This was the most disturbing experience from the trip. As soon as I walked inside, the place had an eerie feel; it was as if it carried a dense atmosphere. I remember walking through the white corridors, and some paintings of crying children were hung up. It is believed they are cursed and that looking at them for too long may bring misfortune, so as soon as I saw them, I looked away. Amadio, the artist, had based his artwork on orphaned children during the Second World War, so I couldn't help but feel sympathy for those paintings. And if things couldn't get any more strange, when we reached the basement level of the museum, I suddenly felt a presence inside that room. This was before I found out that, before it became a museum, the place was a real palace, with family members who had died of disease or even murder. How creepy!

Finally, we visited the amphitheatre where the most popular music festival takes place. My mom was especially excited about this as she had always dreamed of visiting this place since she was a little girl. She would watch MTV videos and hope that someday she'd finally get to be there. Of course, the place was empty, which was a little underwhelming, but seeing my mother's facial expression was priceless to me.

Final Thoughts

When I was on the plane coming back home to Canada, I felt like I was leaving a piece of myself over there. In such a short amount of time, Chile managed to alter my reality and show me a different outcome in my life. Perhaps that is why leaving felt so difficult. Chile was never my home, and yet, somehow, it greeted me as if it had always been one, waiting for me. Its people, ambiance, and elegant streets made this underrated country truly a world of its own.

All photos are my own. All credits belong to abril blogs. Thank you for respecting my work.